What It Means to Travel as an Afro-Latina When the World Cannot Place You
Back to CategoryWhat It Means to Travel as an Afro-Latina When the World Cannot Place You
My mother is from Esmeraldas, Ecuador's Pacific coast province, which is approximately 75% Afro-Ecuadorian — descendants of enslaved Africans who survived the wreck of a Spanish slave ship in the 1500s and built free communities in the coastal jungle before the colonial period classified them as something other than free. My father is white Ecuadorian from Quito. I grew up in New York. My skin is light brown. My hair is natural and voluminous. My Spanish is the Spanish of a home kitchen. My English is the English of the American public school system. I do not fit comfortably into any single racial or cultural category that the world tries to assign me in airports, in hotel lobbies, in local restaurants, in my own family gatherings in Ecuador. This post is about what traveling as an Afro-Latina who does not present in a way the world recognizes feels like — and why the categories themselves are always the problem. **The Airport Sorting** Airport security is never neutral for me, but the way it is not neutral changes by context in ways that fascinate and exhaust me in equal measure. In US airports, I am sorted based on appearance — Black enough for the additional attention that Black travelers in America experience, not Black enough for some of the solidarity I feel with Black American travelers but sometimes do not receive. In Ecuadorian airports, I move through the domestic security as a local because I am one — but at international departures in Guayaquil, the officer once asked if I was sure I had the right passport when I handed over my Ecuadorian document. He looked at my mother, who was traveling with me, and back at me, and said nothing further. My mother said nothing. We said nothing on the other side of the scanner for about ten minutes. **The Latin American Colorism Layer** Latin America has a colorism system that functions in parallel with but distinct from North American racial categories. The Spanish colonial caste system created a hierarchy of racial mixing — mestizo, mulato, zambo, criollo — that organized social and economic access for three centuries and whose residue is present in the way family gatherings in Quito arrange themselves by implied rather than stated preference, in the advertising billboards across Latin American cities that remain predominantly light-skinned, in the comment my aunt made once about my "good" mixed heritage as if mixed were inherently an improvement on Black. When I travel in Latin America, I navigate this system on two levels simultaneously: the external performance of a traveler moving through a country, and the internal negotiation of a person whose family relationship with that country's racial politics is direct and personal. **What Travel Has Given Me That Institution Could Not** Traveling to Esmeraldas — to the province where my mother's family comes from — gave me something that no classroom-based understanding of Afro-Latin identity could replicate. I ate ceviche on the Pacific coast with women whose faces look like mine and whose grandmothers' grandmothers survived the same shipwreck. The marimba music that the Afro-Esmeraldeño community plays is on UNESCO's intangible cultural heritage list. I danced to it badly at a community celebration and nobody cared about the quality of my dancing. **For Other Afro-Latinos Traveling in Their Own Region** Your complexity is not a problem to be solved before you travel. You do not need to resolve your identity before you are permitted to move through the world with confidence. Travel as you are. The categories will try to contain you at every border. Let them try. You cross anyway.
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