Our Community Road Trip Through the American South: 8 Travelers, 1 Van, 12 Days
Back to CategoryOur Community Road Trip Through the American South: 8 Travelers, 1 Van, 12 Days
Eight people, one rented fifteen-passenger van with the middle row folded flat for luggage, twelve days through Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, and Georgia. We called ourselves The South Project and we had one organizing principle: we would travel the American South as Black travelers who understood its full history and refused to let that history be either ignored or its only lens.
The group came together through this community and through the Nomadness Travel Tribe. Our ages ranged from twenty-six to fifty-four. We were from New York, Chicago, Atlanta, Houston, and Oakland. We had never all been in the same room before day one. By day twelve we were arguing about music like a family.
**Day 1-3: Alabama**
We started in Birmingham at the Birmingham Civil Rights Institute, which took us four hours when we had planned two. This became the pattern: we consistently underestimated how long we would need because we consistently underestimated the emotional weight of engaging with the history directly rather than at the mediated distance that most tourists experience it.
Selma and the Edmund Pettus Bridge was the most powerful experience of the trip. We crossed it together and one member of our group, Marcus, who is sixty-seven — I listed the ages wrong, Marcus joined late and is the eldest — told us that his grandmother had been in the crowd on Bloody Sunday in 1965. He had never crossed the bridge before. He stood at the midpoint for a long time and nobody moved or spoke.
We ate at Ezell's Fish Camp, a legendary Selma institution. The catfish was extraordinary. The owner came out to talk to us for forty minutes and sent us away with extra cornbread wrapped in foil.
**Day 4-6: Mississippi**
Jackson and the Mississippi Delta surprised everyone in the van who had not been before with its contradiction: deep poverty overlaid on a cultural richness — in music, in food, in art — that is the precise product of a people generating beauty in conditions designed to prevent it.
We visited the B.B. King Museum in Indianola. We stopped at a juke joint outside Clarksdale on a Thursday evening that was listed as closed but had lights on and music coming through the walls and the owner waved us in when we knocked. Six people were playing music in a room that seated forty. We drank beer and listened for three hours. This was not listed in any travel guide.
**Day 7-9: Louisiana**
New Orleans. We had allocated three days and wished we had allocated five. The city is a community event occurring continuously at street level regardless of whether any event is scheduled.
We did the Whitney Plantation slavery museum outside New Orleans — the only plantation museum in Louisiana that tells the story from the enslaved perspective rather than the planter perspective — and emerged two hours later in a profound collective silence that a gas station lunch eventually broke with conversation that went on through dinner.
We also danced in the street. We ate raw oysters by the bucket. We heard jazz in the rain at midnight on Frenchmen Street until the venue owner asked us to choose between buying another drink and going home. We bought another drink.
**Day 10-12: Georgia**
Atlanta felt like coming home for Talia, who organized the final leg. She took us to Sweet Auburn, to the MLK Historic Site, to spots in the West End that are not on any tourist map but are on hers. She took us to her grandmother's church on Sunday morning and we were welcomed into the service with the specific warmth of a congregation that has seen generations come and go and recognizes kinship when it walks in.
**What We Made Together**
A shared photo album of over four hundred images. A playlist of every song that came on in the van and mattered. A group chat that is still active daily. A commitment to a West Africa trip next year that is partially planned and fully intended.
We also made something less tangible: proof that traveling with your own community, on your own terms, through spaces that carry your own history, produces a kind of travel that no itinerary designed for general consumption can replicate. We were not visitors to the American South. We were its children, returning.
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